whatsuitsme

Bixie, Italian bob, French bob: three cuts, three different jaws

They are sold as three moods. They are really three finishing lines, and each one sits in a different relationship to the jaw. Once that is clear the choice stops being about taste.

Last reviewed 2 August 20266 min readSravya

Editorial portrait showing a softly waved bixie cut
The figures
110k
Monthly searches for the bixie

Up 122 percent year on year, the fastest riser of the three.

3
Finishing lines

Above the jaw, at the jaw, below the jaw. That is the entire difference.

0.85
The jaw ratio that splits them

Below it, all three are open. Above it, only one is comfortable.

The short version

A bixie finishes above the jaw and puts the jawline fully on show. A French bob finishes at or just below it, usually with a fringe. An Italian bob sits below the jaw with the ends turned under and the weight kept in. If your jaw is clearly narrower than your cheekbones, all three are available and the choice is taste. If your jaw is close to as wide as your cheekbones, the Italian bob is the one that helps, because it is the only one of the three carrying weight past the widest point.

01The three, defined by where they stop

Three cuts, three finishing lines
CutWhere it finishesWhat it does to the jawUpkeep
BixieAbove the jaw, at or near the earShows all of it. Nothing beside the jaw and nothing below it.High. Six to eight weeks.
French bobAt the jaw, usually with a blunt fringeDraws a horizontal line level with the jaw, which reads as width there.Medium. Eight to ten weeks.
Italian bobBelow the jaw, ends turned underCarries weight past the jaw, so the widest visible line moves below it.Medium. Eight to ten weeks.

Stylists describe the Italian bob as the sculpted one, polished rather than undone. That description is about finish. The reason it suits more people than the other two is structural: it is the only one of the three that does not draw a line at or above the widest part of a lower face.

02Which one your jaw is asking for

Shape by shape
ShapeBixieFrench bobItalian bob
OvalYesYesYes
HeartYesYesYes
DiamondYesWith a softened fringeYes
OblongWith crown volume kept lowYes, the fringe helpsYes
SquareOnly if texturedNo, it repeats the jawYes
RoundNoNoYes
TriangleNoNoYes, with volume above the ear

Verdicts follow the same balance logic the face shape tool uses. They are guidance, not rules.

03The mistake all three share

All three are usually chosen from a photograph of someone whose jaw is narrower than the reader's. That is not an accident. Cuts that finish near the jaw photograph best on faces where the jaw is the narrowest thing in frame, so those are the photographs that circulate, and the cut arrives in the salon attached to a face it was never demonstrated on.

The fix is not to avoid the cut. It is to say out loud where you want it to finish, in relation to your own jaw, rather than pointing at the photograph.

Finish it a finger's width below the jaw, not level with it.

One sentence, and it converts any of the three into the version that suits a wider jaw. Naming the proportion gives a stylist something to work with. A photograph of somebody else does not.

Common questions

Sources

Every figure quoted above is listed here with what it was used for and when the source was last checked. Anything not attributed to a source is this site’s own reading and is labelled as such where it appears.

Check it against your own measurements

The number that decides between these three is jaw width divided by cheekbone width. The tool reads it from a photograph and shows the figure, so the decision is made on a measurement rather than on whose photograph you saw first.

Find which bob fits