Styling guides

The bust-to-hip and waist-to-hip ratios behind each shape, how to take the three measurements properly, and the cuts that work with the proportion rather than against it.

• Hourglass body shapeBust and hip measure close to each other, near 1.00, with a clearly defined waist near 0.72 of the hip.Bust/hip 1.00Waist/hip 0.72
• Pear body shapeThe hip is clearly wider than the bust, near 0.88 bust to hip, with a reasonably defined waist near 0.76.Bust/hip 0.88Waist/hip 0.76
• Apple body shapeThe waist measures close to the hip, near 0.94, with the bust slightly wider than the hip at around 1.02.Bust/hip 1.02Waist/hip 0.94
• Rectangle body shapeBust and hip measure close to each other, near 1.00, with a softer waist near 0.84 of the hip.Bust/hip 1.00Waist/hip 0.84
• Inverted triangle body shapeThe bust and shoulders are clearly wider than the hip, near 1.14 bust to hip, with a waist near 0.82.Bust/hip 1.14Waist/hip 0.82

The four at-home checks, how much each one is actually worth, and why mixed results mean neutral rather than a failed test.

• Warm undertoneSkin carries a golden, peachy or yellow base, gold jewellery sits more comfortably than silver, and veins read green.Vein colour ×2Jewellery ×1.5Sun response ×1White fabric ×1
• Cool undertoneSkin carries a pink, red or blue base, silver jewellery sits more comfortably than gold, and veins read blue or purple.Vein colour ×2Jewellery ×1.5Sun response ×1White fabric ×1
• Neutral undertoneThe checks disagree or sit on the fence: veins hard to call, gold and silver both acceptable, and both cream and white workable.Vein colour ×2Jewellery ×1.5Sun response ×1White fabric ×1
• Olive undertoneA green or grey cast sits alongside warmth, so warm foundations turn orange and cool ones turn grey.Vein colour ×2Jewellery ×1.5Sun response ×1White fabric ×1

All twelve seasons, each scored separately on temperature, depth, contrast and clarity, with the palette and the shades to keep away from your face.

• Light SpringLight and warm, with gentle contrast and colours that stay clear rather than dusty.
  • Apricot, #F6C6A8
  • Buttercup, #FFD56B
  • Mint, #A8D8B9
  • Aqua, #74C9D4
  • Blossom, #F58FA5
  • Cream, #FFF0C7
• Warm SpringFully warm at 1.00, with medium depth and contrast and colours that stay clear rather than earthy.
  • Marigold, #F28C28
  • Gold, #F6C445
  • Leaf, #73B66B
  • Lagoon, #2AAFA3
  • Coral, #E85D75
  • Amber, #C97845
• Clear SpringMaximum clarity and contrast, with a slight warm lean, so colours must be bright and never muted.
  • Poppy, #FF4F64
  • Jade, #00AFA0
  • Cobalt, #2F74D0
  • Sun, #FFD000
  • Grass, #7CBF45
  • Tangerine, #F47B20
• Light SummerLight and cool, with low contrast and colours that are gently softened rather than clear.
  • Powder, #B8CBE3
  • Lilac, #D9B8D0
  • Seafoam, #A9CED0
  • Periwinkle, #C7C8E2
  • Rose, #E8B7BD
  • Pearl, #D7D9CF
• Cool SummerFully cool at -1.00, with medium depth and contrast and colours that stay softened rather than sharp.
  • Bluebell, #657FA8
  • Orchid, #A8759D
  • Teal, #609A9D
  • Iris, #8B89B5
  • Rosewood, #C47D8B
  • Mist, #AEB6C4
• Soft SummerMaximum softness at -1.00 with low contrast, on a gently cool base.
  • Slate, #8295A2
  • Mauve, #A8899B
  • Sage, #7F9A91
  • Heather, #9992A5
  • Dusk, #B99A98
  • Stone, #A7AAA2
• Soft AutumnMaximum softness at -1.00 with low contrast, on a gently warm base.
  • Camel, #A88666
  • Moss, #A89A62
  • Fern, #71846E
  • Clay, #9A7167
  • Wheat, #B88768
  • Umber, #817C6B
• Warm AutumnFully warm at 1.00 with medium depth and contrast, and colours that are rich and earthy rather than clear.
  • Rust, #B9572B
  • Ochre, #C58B27
  • Olive, #687A3C
  • Brick, #9B4B3F
  • Bronze, #A56A43
  • Pine, #3F7164
• Deep AutumnDeep at 1.00 and warm at 0.55, with moderate contrast and colours that stay rich rather than bright.
  • Chestnut, #713A2C
  • Amber, #8A5A1F
  • Forest, #3F5B32
  • Maroon, #7A3F45
  • Moss, #4C5540
  • Teal, #23615A
• Deep WinterDeep at 1.00 with high contrast at 1.00, on a cool base, and colours that stay clear rather than muted.
  • Aubergine, #551A45
  • Navy, #123B67
  • Peacock, #006B68
  • Crimson, #9A1635
  • Ink, #25233F
  • Ice, #D8DCE8
• Cool WinterFully cool at -1.00 with high contrast and clear colours, at moderate depth.
  • Magenta, #C2185B
  • Sapphire, #3157A4
  • Turquoise, #008E9B
  • Violet, #6C3FA0
  • Scarlet, #D51F32
  • Snow, #E7EAF2
• Clear WinterMaximum clarity and contrast at 1.00, on a cool base, with medium depth.
  • Fuchsia, #E6005C
  • Cobalt, #0057B8
  • Emerald, #00A09A
  • Purple, #6B2FB9
  • Red, #D71920
  • White, #F2F4F8